Italian language course: Never heard of Istria? Well, you will

By Charles Leocha

Driving south from Trieste, Italy, the first corner of Croatia you encounter is the triangular peninsula called Istria. On my last trip, I never made it any farther. Now being touted as the “new Tuscany,” Istria has in fact long been noted for its beautiful Adriatic coast, lush forests, olive groves, vineyards and offshore islands.

Long a part of the Roman Empire and Italy, Istria has more recently acquired an overlay of Austrian and Slavic influences that have done little to change the essentially Italian character of the region. The landscape is one of vineyards, olive groves and Venetian-style church towers; its kitchens offer pasta and pizza; and Italian is spoken almost as readily as Croatian.

The recent history is a little convoluted. After World War I, Italy wrested control of the region from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which had governed it for more than 100 years. After World War II, Tito claimed it for Yugoslavia; at that time, a determined effort was made to stamp out the Italian language and culture. After Tito’s death, in the late 1980s, Croatia broke away from Yugoslavia, taking Istria with it. In the ensuing war with Serbia, Istria was spared destruction and much of the old, Italian character resurfaced.

Recently, Istria has regained its tourism footing. Its 150-mile coastline is packed with Germans, Austrians, Slovenians and Italians from June through September, the region’s high season. It is easy to get to. Hydrofoils cross the Adriatic Sea from Venice in about an hour and a half, and most of the region is within a 90-minute drive of Trieste. Croatia Air connects Pula, at the southern tip of the peninsula, with many European capitals as well.

Magazine articles and guidebooks often give the impression that prices in Croatia are low, but Istria cannot be considered a cheap vacation. It does cost less than Italy or Austria, and it is far more rustic, especially in the interior. The best bets for bargains are private rooms away from the coast, especially in the off-season, when prices drop dramatically (sometimes more than 50 percent). Summer is too crowded, anyway, but May and October are perfect.